Last year, during my first spring away from home, Easter
kind of snuck up on me. Honestly, I had no reason to notice that it was coming.
Here in Prague, though, there was no way I could miss it. A couple weeks ago,
Easter markets started popping up around town. Over the past week, they have
continued appearing and growing. Painted eggs, brightly colored streamers, and
Easter chocolate seem to be everywhere, along with these decorated sticks
called “pomlaska.” Boys/men are meant to use these sticks to wake girls/women
up on the Monday after Easter by lightly hitting them. The “beating” is
supposed to encourage youth in the women. In return, the girls/women are
supposed to give the boys chocolate or painted eggs. My Czech teacher insists
that it is a fun, light-hearted tradition, but I feel that Easter egg hunts are
more egalitarian. As David and I have said for the past few weeks, they get
REALLY in to Easter here.
We went to visit some of the famed Easter markets, which
take place predominately in Prague’s main squares. Old Town Square and
Wenceslas Square are crowded and touristy under normal conditions. With the
markets, they basically morphed into surging throngs of people punctuated with
colorfully decorated trees and sections of perfectly groomed tulips. It was odd
to notice how radically different these spaces felt, especially as compared to
the first times I visited them a few months ago. At the market at Old Town
Square, David and I spent a good 30 minutes* picking out a set of five painted
eggs that are beautiful. We had fun decorating his apartment with them that
evening.
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Our painted Easter eggs |
The next morning, David and I attended an Easter service at
St. Vitus Cathedral. We had looked into a few different services, some in
Czech, some in Latin, some in English. We ended up choosing the 8:30 service at
St. Vitus because we felt it would be such a quintessential experience of
Prague. It definitely was, but it also turned out much differently than we had
expected. I was thinking the service would be extremely crowded. I was even
worried that we might not be able to find seats. This was definitely not the
case. We sat on the front row, in a service of less than 50 people. I assumed
that the service was emptier than I expected because of the generally atheistic
nature of Czech society. After asking my Czech teacher, she agreed and added
that many citizens of Prague also spend spring weekends at weekend cottages in
the country, and thus would not have been in Prague for Easter.
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Outside of St. Vitus on Easter Sunday |
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View from our seats at St. Vitus |
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Stained glass at the back of St. Vitus |
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People filing in for the 10:00 Easter service |
David is on Spring Break this week, and I had yesterday off
for Easter (they get REALLY in to Easter here), so we went hiking at Divoka
Sarka, that enormous park that I found my first week here. It was as big and
beautiful as I’d remembered, and we loved wondering around, soaking up the
tranquility outside of the bustling city. Afterwards, we went to our favorite
Indian food restaurant for a late lunch and headed back to his apartment to do
homework. I’m in classes most of today but tomorrow, we’ll both be off again and
we’re going to go on a day trip. We’ll be taking a train for about an hour and
a half to a town called Cesky Krumlov. People have been telling us to go there
since we arrived. All I know is that it is a UNESCO World Heritage site and
there is a castle, so I’m sold. I’ll post pictures later
We also tried a Mexican food restaurant to ease our homesickness. The restaurant was great. The decorations were like many places in Austin, and the food was delicious. I'm not sure it made us less homesick, but we had fun nonetheless.
* “A good 30
minutes” is now an inside joke for David and I. While in Salzburg, we went to
the Panorama Museum just before it closed. The museum exhibit contains just a
painted panorama of the city, and a few scenes from around the world. We had
about 25 minutes before the museum was to close, but the man at the ticket
counter heavily encouraged us to come back another day because we would need “a
good 30 minutes” to see the paintings.
We went back the next day and spent about 20 minutes there.
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